Making continuous bias binding
surprisingly calming and meditative
As I'm working on a new sewing pattern, I’m currently deconstructing the making process of it. The fundamental premise that I have set for this pattern is that it should be easy and quick to make, without losing an ounce of beauty.
I think I'm getting there. However, the little challenge ahead is finding the most effective way to apply visible bias binding.
Up until now, my extensive search through the cosmos of images, videos, and texts on the internet — with the direct assistance of AI, obviously — has led me to acknowledge that a perfectly finished bias binding is the result of a consistent practice that will eventually lead to expertise. Clearly, there are some shortcuts, like adjustable bias binding foots, but I'm not entirely sure how effective they are on curves or with thin bias bindings.
I’m in the midsts of my crusade. But I need a lot of bias binding for testing, therefore, since I don't want to buy it pre-made, I've explored how to make it myself. Frankly, I’m pleasantly surprised at how easy and calming it is to create. That’s if you embrace the slowness of the course of action, obviously.
There are lots of ways to create bias tape but I think the most practical way to do it is by manipulating the fabric in such a way that you create a continuous strip.
Here’s a short tutorial on how to make continuous bias binding:
Start with a square of fabric, any fabric you wish (ideally light to medium weight).
Cut the square in half diagonally. You have created two opposite triangles
Right sides facing, align the bases of the rectangles (folding the deconstructed square).
Machine stitch and press the seam flat open.
Arrange seam so it runs diagonally.
Use an erasable marker and draw guidelines on the wrong side of the fabric. Decide how wide the lines need to be for your project: 4 x final width desired, so 1,5” wide makes 3/8” bias tape.
Fold the two straight grain edges together, it’ll feel weird but trust the process!
Pin together offsetting the first strip. Make the lines cross at the level of the stitching line 75mm (5/8”) and machine stitch, press the seam flat open.
Cut the strips apart starting at one of the offset ends. You’ll make a long long strip
Use a bias tape maker to press your strip. If you don’t have one, press both edges into de center, then press in half.
Now, you can make bias binding from any scrap fabric you have at home, saving you a trip to the haberdashery in case of an emergency. In practical terms this method is a timesaver but when it comes to the creative domain, it opens up a world of possibilities. Remove the word binding from the equation, and bias tape becomes a medium to create, to express yourself. Remember, these little strips of fabric are fundamentally malleable, you can manipulate them, play with them as if they were a thread depending on the scale of your work. There are textile artists creating extraordinary pieces with bias tape.
Finally, creating continuous bias binding is also a surprisingly calming and meditative task, especially once you master the gestures. Embrace the slowness of the course of action, while repurposing those beautiful scraps of fabric that are lying around in your studio.